This document is relevant only for the following hardware:
Don’t overtighten the screws! Tightening them too much can damage the arm. The best way of tightening the screws is to screw them in until they stop the joint moving freely and then loosen them slightly until it moves with no friction.
Don’t force any of the pieces into position. If something won’t fit then it’s probably not meant to. If a part is meant to go on a specific way around then it has been designed to only go on that way around. If it doesn’t seem to fit correctly then try turning it around.
Because the kit has been designed to work for multiple sizes of Raspberry Pi there will be some pieces left over. Don’t worry! In this case there should be two small plastic spacers and the long edge of the base with one hole in it for the Raspberry Pi Zero.
This version of the instructions is for a Model B+ style Raspberry Pi (e.g. Raspberry Pi 2 or 3). If you are building your MeArm Pi using a Raspberry Pi Zero then please use these instructions. You can also view these instructions as a pdf.
Once you’ve done this you’re ready to start building your MeArm Pi. Click “Start” to get going - if you need to repeat a step you can press the “repeat” button or press “loop” to keep looping a step until you’re ready to move on to the next.
Take the base PCB and place it face up (look for the word TOP to help) then insert the servo that has a double ended arm (there's only one of these) into the hole in the centre. It needs to go the right way around so align the servo arm with the circle on the board
Find the centre piece (part #1) and slide it down over the servo. The tabs are sized so it will only go on one way so if it doesn't go on easily, try it the other way around
Wind the servo cable around the centre piece to keep it tidy. Looking from above it should be wound in a clockwise direction through the two holes on each side of the servo
Slide the end pieces (parts #2) down over the centre piece so that they slot into the base. Again, these will only go on one way around
Slide the left side (part #3) over the pins in the base
Slide the right side (part #4) over the pins in the base
Take one of the elastic bands and loop it around the base so that it sits in the upper set of slots in the side pieces. You can put this assembly to one side for now
Take the crossbrace (part #10) and slide it into the left main strut (part #5)
Attach the long strut (part #6) to the top of the previous part using a 10mm screw. The screw should go through and hold the crossbrace in place
Attach the left rear strut (part #7) to the rear of the long strut you just added using a 6m screw. It should go on the same side as the main strut
Put the two short lower lever parts (parts #8 and #9) together so that the larger hole is facing to the outside, then attach this to the rear strut you just added using a 10mm screw through the hole at the thin end
Clip on the right main strut (part #11) to the crossbrace
Put a 10mm screw through the lower right upper strut (part #13) at the thicker end and then through the triangular piece (part #12). This piece should be aligned so that the screw goes through the hole marked with a small triangle
Attach the upper strut (part #7) to the upper hole of the triangular piece using a 6mm screw
Attach the right rear strut (part #7) to the rear hole on the triangular piece using a 6mm screw
Take the base you previously built and screw the arm piece on to the centre piece of the base using a 6mm screw. The screw should go through the lower lever and screw into the centre piece of the base
Screw the rear strut to the base using a 6mm screw
Slide the right servo in to place so the servo arm slots into the hole
Attach a servo clip (part #14) to either side of the servo and clip it in to the bottom of the base
Wind the cable around the servo clips to keep it tidy and then plug it into the pins on the base. Looking at the side, the cable should be wound anticlockwise, passing up and over the servo first. The yellow wire should be to the right
Slide the right servo in to place so the servo arm slots into the hole
Attach a servo clip (part #14) to either side of the servo and clip it in to the bottom of the base.
Wind the cable around the servo clips to keep it tidy and then plug it into the pins on the base. Looking at the side, the cable should be wound clockwise, passing up and over the servo first. The yellow wire should be to the right
Place an elastic band around the base, holding the bottoms of the servo clips securely in place. Put this assembly to one side now
Take the last remaining servo and align the arm as shown in the picture. Take the left grip side (part #15) and slide it on to the end of the servo closest to the arm
Slot the centre grip support (part #16) on to the other end of the servo facing the same way as the other end
Clip the grip front plate (part #17) on to the front of the two pieces you slotted on to the servo. Make sure the extra hole is at the opposite end to the servo arm
Slot the left grip side (part #18) in to the third hole in the front plate
Slide the rear grip support (part #19) in to the gap and turn it up so it slots into place. The lower edge of it should be level with the front plate
Take the left grip (part #20) and place it over the servo arm
Align the right grip (part #21) with the left and hold in place
Slide the grip base (part #22) on so that the large hole aligns with the servo arm side and screw it into place through the right grip with a 10mm screw
Attach the grip to the rest of the arm using three 6mm screws
Tuck the cable down through the slot on the grip and then in and out of the crossbrace on the arm to keep it tidy and then plug it into the pins on the base with the yellow wire on the right. Put this whole assembly to one side for now
Take the two large base pieces and align them with the white part on top, making sure that the four screw holes are properly aligned. These parts are not symmetrical so it is important to get them the right way around
Gently attach the Pi HAT to the GPIO pins on the Raspberry Pi, making sure they align properly. Push down gently but stop before it is fully on to leave room for the spacers. Make sure the SD card you prepared before starting is in the slot on your Pi.
One by one, take a round spacer and push it into the side of the Pi and HAT then slot a 16mm screw through to hold it in place
Gently align all four screws that should be sticking out of the bottom of the Raspberry Pi with the holes in the base and then screw them all into place. Do not overtighten the screws
Slot the front (part #24) and back (part #23) sides into place. If you have used a Pi Zero, then you should use part #25 instead of part #23 as you don't need the extra holes
Slot part #25 into place on the left of the base. If you're using a Pi Zero then there's an extra one of these to fill the gap on the right side of the base
Slot all of the tabs on the edges into the cover and attach an elastic on either side of the base
Push the joystick caps on to the joysticks. It's best to take a look at these and get them aligned properly because there are two flat sides that need aligning
Gently prise the two base plates apart and slide the servo arm in between them and slide it down the central slot until it clips into place in the hole in the bottom
Attach the final elastic band across the front of the base to hold the plates together and make a stable foot to stand it on
Plug the two parts together using the ribbon cable included. You're now ready to power up and use your MeArm Pi! First, plug in your power supply to the upper USB socket (the one on the HAT). The power supply should be capable of supplying 2.5A, like the official Raspberry Pi supplies. Once it's moved into its default position you can get started with the instructions here or just use the joysticks to control it. If it's having trouble moving then check the troubleshooting guide for help.